Size matters. But why ‘weight’ for the best Gem

There is an issue that seems to be confusing people. That is Carat.

Carat is the ‘weight’ of a Diamond. It does not refer to dimension size. One Carat or 1ct weighs 200 milligrams.

When I mention that a stone is 2.04ct or 3.15ct or 1.50ct I’m talking about weight. Not dimension size.

A 1.00ct Diamond with an ideal cut, will ‘measure’ approximately 6.40mm in diameter. That is the bit you see on top, the surface area of the stone.

Another point I must make. A 2.00ct Gem is ‘not’ twice the size of a 1.00ct Gem. It is twice the weight. Please do bear this in mind.

A 1.00ct will ‘measure’ approximately 6.40mm and a 2.00ct will ‘measure’ approximately 8.1mm. But a 2.00ct will ‘weigh’ twice as much.

Big is not better, as sacrifices are often made to accommodate and satisfy the need for dimension size.

Sapphires differ. Emeralds and all other Gems differ as they all have different specific gravity.

When I choose a Gem for you, I do so based on best cut grade, the optimum colour and clarity for the size and shape of your Gem.

For example I can put a 0.90ct Round with a 6.10mm size and ‘ideal cut’ beside a 1.00ct of 5.90mm with a lesser quality cut. The difference?

Size?

Does size matter?

‘Weight’ and see.

If you have any questions as to what you should be looking for, do get in touch:

086 8687456 Mon to Fri, and michaelwallbespoke@gmail.com

Do feel free to leave a comment, some feedback, or even a hello.

Michael

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D is for Diamond. D is for Dangerous.

I spoke to various people over the last couple of days. One was a Goldsmith, the others included a self-declared novice, a Gemologist, and a Client. We spoke Diamonds.

Obviously with each it was a different conversation. It dawned on me as I put the phone down at the end of the most recent chat, there is a phenomenal ‘grey area’ that causes so many problems when talking Diamonds and more so when it comes to choosing them.

A little information is a dangerous thing. You can freely research every aspect and feature of a Diamond. You can read about colour, clarity, symmetry, crown and pavilion angles etc.

But what does that mean to you the customer. Can you confidently say after all your research that you know enough to buy a Diamond?

I know I couldn’t, and if you can I am highly impressed. From what I read on the net, I wouldn’t hazard a guess as to what I could end up buying. If you tell me you want a round cut, 1.22 carat, G colour Diamond, with VVS1 clarity you do not impress me with the fact you know the 4 C’s. That isn’t knowing the 4 C’s. That’s just reading about them and interpreting what it means.

That is highly dangerous. It does not give you any grounding in how to ‘Buy’ a Diamond.

If I were to show you 2 Diamonds exhibiting the same weight, colour, and clarity and put them side, then tell you one was €1,100 more than the other could you tell me why?

If I were to show you two Diamonds and tell you one was F colour and the other H, would you be able to tell me which one is which?

I can’t. Not without a loupe of at least x 10 times the magnification. Even then there are a lot of factors to be considered.

I can tell you what to look for when buying a Gem. But I am telling you that even if you know all about the 4C’s it won’t make a blind bit of difference.  

There are a lot more differences to consider; good, fair and excellent symmetry, how lack of or the presence of fluorescence affects a stone of lower colours, how a wavy girdle or an off centre table affects a stone. Even these won’t make a difference to you.

Why? Because of the ‘naked eye’, that’s my eye, yours, the onlookers, the observers. If you have a stone that is clean to the naked eye that’s what matters. If you’re considering an E colour instead of a G, the only difference you will visibly notice is the drastic amount of money you spend to have a feature in a stone you won’t be able to appreciate. That’s what matters.  

I’m hoping I’m not coming across as brash or rude or ignorant. Most people will find it difficult, if not near impossible to distinguish colour and clarity.

These are features of the Diamond. These features in your stone will be there forever. The beauty of the stone is the benefit you will receive. But what is the point of paying for features such as clarity and colour when you will never benefit from them.

If you have a question as to why a 1.00ct F colour with I1 clarity is costing the same as a 1.00ct I colour VS1 clarity stone, ask me. I can also tell you which one of those stones will be a better buy. There are other 1.00cts out there that will have the colours and clarity’s of the ones mentioned above yet will be percentages above and below the cost. Ask me before you buy.

I haven’t touched upon the mark-ups associated in the retail trade, nor do I want to. The differences you will see are quite noticeable. There is a reason. That reason is that Shop 1’s Diamond may be wholly different to Shop 2’s stone.

Be fully aware of that. It doesn’t mean you are getting less, it means you’ll end up paying more.

You can freely mail me if you have any questions. Alternatively do leave me a comment. I appreciate your feedback and all likes are welcome.

Regards,

Michael  

michaelwallbespoke@gmail.com

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Thanks to the GIA for the use of their images.

Michael Wall Bespoke

Showcase of Designs and Pieces in Gold and Platinum.

Fully Bespoke Service with G.I.A Certified Diamonds. in Gold or Platinum.

If you would like to chat to me live (almost live) you can find me here:
Follow @DiamondsIRL

Video courtesy of Nobomedia

To Quote you Happy

A few calls during the week got me thinking.

I am normally blessed with clients who pretty much know what they are looking for. Although from time to time I will still be asked some questions like ‘How much would a Diamond cost’, and ‘How much would it cost to get a ring made in Platinum’?

I could ask, ‘How long is a piece of String’? There is no definite answer, as all the criteria differ. Do you want a 1 carat stone, a half carat stone, and what type of Platinum ring would you like?

There are variables to be considered. The difference in all these will be the reasoning behind my final answer.

Now there is one variable that some but not all of don’t want to bring up. It is something that I discuss with everyone.

It’s Budget.

Don’t worry. It isn’t an ugly term.  Don’t be afraid to mention it. To my mind a Budget is the price you are willing to pay. Don’t be worried about it. If you want to spend small, big or astronomical, you will still have a budget in mind.

Talk to me about it. Let me know what I can do for the Budget you have in mind. Do not be put off by it.

You are as important to me as my last and prospective customer. More so in fact as it is the first time I get to look after you, and hopefully build a relationship with you for many happy years to come.

One of my calls yesterday was a little disappointing as I did not quote my client happy.

Now this I like to do. I don’t like to be beaten on price. I won’t sacrifice quality but I would prefer to know that I have quoted a higher price. Why?? It’s because I want to work with you, bring my experience to the table, and bring the best of what is available to me to you.

Yes it is that simple. No matter how grand or small your piece of Jewellery, it is the satisfaction of knowing that I have found you the exact Stone or Stones that you have searched for.

Customer service to my mind is a little more than you buying from me, or me selling to you for that matter. It is more than that. It is talking with you. It’s understanding you. It’s delivering exactly what you come to expect, and then exceed that.

If you have been searching a long time for a stone/piece that is uniquely you, then I want the privilege to find that for you.

Out of all the people I speak to on a daily basis, friends, colleagues and clients, you can be assured of one thing. I am approachable. I will happily look after you, and enjoy sitting down with you to hear what you have to say. So talk to me.

I honestly hate to see anyone including myself settle for second best because a Budget brings you there.

So if you think you can find the same Certified Diamond or Coloured Stone that I have quoted you for less, I want to know.

My promise to you is that I will do my best to meet or exceed your expectations.

So call me, or mail with you questions.

086 8687456 michaelwallbespoke@gmail.com

If you have a question you can ask me live (almost live) here:
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Michael

Valuation Service

My last few posts throughout February and March were more or less pointers to keep your jewellery in proper order, with some little tips thrown in. I was scrolling down through a post in February and noticed that although I touched on Valuations, I didn’t really say where to go to get a proper one.

Now as I mentioned before, to my mind it is not acceptable to have a schedule of items with little or no information about the contents. All well and good to have a Ring listed as ‘Diamond Ring’, with a Value attached, but if you can’t tell why it is Valued at that, then it is absolutely no good to you.

As mentioned in one of my February posts; ‘Any Jeweller that undertakes to write and ‘charge’ for a Valuation should be qualified to do so. Expect a Colour, Clarity, and Carat. Expect description of Metals used, and type of setting. Expect dimension sizes, expect a detailed description. Otherwise that Valuation is rubbish.’

For Insurance purposes, many items you have covered under your house and contents, may or may not be covered in the event of loss or theft. It is worth noting that items of lesser value may be, however items that are of significant value need to be insured separately.

From May, I will be offering a Fully Comprehensive service to you all. The details of which are as follows;

• A full Valuation service on ‘Multiple Items’ of Jewellery.

• An Itemised list of all Items of Jewellery.

• A full check of the Settings, and Stones in your Jewellery.

• A printed Schedule of all Items for Insurance Purposes.

  Flat Rate of €60 for all of the above.

I will NOT be charging a ‘final value fee’ of the Item(s).

Along with the above I will be on hand to take all questions, offer you advice on any aspect you might like addressed.

All is on a ‘by appointment only’ basis. The reason for this is to devote as much time to you, making sure all items are properly classified, and to answer all queries you may have. I will be available each week where you can come and have all the above carried out for €60.

I am not buying, selling, or receiving any scrap, old, or broken jewellery.

If you do have any broken pieces, and would like some advice on repairing or re-modelling, then feel free to bring them along.

MAY APPOINTMENTS – CORK CITY

To get in touch by telephone: 086 8687456                To get in touch by e-mail: michaelwallbespoke@gmail.com

Regards,

Michael 

Not worth the Paper it is written on

Diamond Certification is a wonderful thing. It informs you of the essentials such as the Carat, the Colour, and the Clarity. Some fine Institutions are eligible to do this, such as the I.G.I, and G.I.A.

Certification however is not a Valuation. And when we seek such information for our own peace of mind, or for Insurance or other purposes we usually go to the trusted Jeweller.

This is where you will get a detailed ‘Item Classification’, be it a Stone/Stones or a Piece of Jewellery, a Description of Same, and a Valuation for Insurance Purposes.

Or at least this is what you ‘should’ get.

You should not get a generic A4 headed note, with a description amounting to ‘Diamond Ring’, and nothing more. That is, if you’ll excuse the expression, a crock of ‘Shit’.

Too often I have seen Jewellers print out generic Valuations that are quite frankly NOT worth the paper they are written on. Yet they still find the time to charge for it. This can be anything from a €50 flat rate, to a quantified measure such as €50 for the first €1000 worth, €10 per each additional €500, or a percentage of the final Valuation.

The Diamond has a value, along with the Gold, and to some extent the design. In other cases the ‘Brand’ will have a value more so than the sum of its parts. But a Rolex for example needs to be qualified. What Model is it? What Year, what Calibre, what metals are used. A Fabergé Brooch, the same. A Diamond Ring also.

Any Jeweller that undertakes to write and ‘charge’ for a Valuation should be qualified to do so. Expect a Colour, Clarity, and Carat. Expect description of Metals used and type of setting. Expect dimension sizes. Expect a detailed description. Otherwise that Valuation is rubbish.

It is ridiculous to charge for something that merely corresponds to a similar item in stock and base it on that.

That is purely guess-work.

I am happy to offer advice on what a Valuation should amount to, and will readily discuss with a Client whether or not I think an item should be valued for Insurance Purposes.

If you need a Valuation, one that is specific to each item of Jewellery, then it will be catalogued and described in as much detail as possible. It will be valued based on each individual aspect.

I would value your feedback, and if you have any comments feel free to offer them.

If you would like some further information, or just have a question you need answered, feel free to contact me at GemInfo@iol.ie or call 086 8687456.

I look forward to hearing from you.

Michael